— from the kitchen of the Longoria family
It didn't matter what time you showed up at the Longoria house on Calle Tercera — there were charro beans on the stove. Morning, afternoon, ten o'clock at night. A giant pot, always simmering. The front door was always unlocked and the kitchen was always open.
Doña Esperanza Longoria started it that way in the 1970s when her husband worked long hours and the neighbors' kids were always around. She figured if she kept a pot going, nobody would go hungry. Thirty years later it was just the way the house worked. People came in, helped themselves, left. Nobody had to ask.
"You never knocked at the Longoria house. You just walked in. The beans were always there."
Doña Esperanza's secret was the chorizo — she added it early, before the bacon even, so the fat from the chorizo became the base of everything. And she never drained the beans from the soaking water. She said that water had flavor in it and throwing it away was wasteful.
Her daughter-in-law Sandra has kept the pot going since Doña Esperanza moved to San Antonio to be near her other grandchildren. The neighbors still come by. The door is still unlocked. The beans are still on.
The night before: Rinse the beans and pick out any stones. Cover with about 3 inches of cold water and soak overnight. Do not drain in the morning — that water goes into the pot.
In a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, cook the chorizo first, breaking it up as it cooks, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside, leaving the fat in the pot.
Add the bacon to the same pot and cook until crispy. Remove and set aside with the chorizo. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat.
Add the onion and jalapeños to the pot. Cook over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cumin and cook another 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook 3 minutes more.
Add the beans with all their soaking water plus enough additional water to cover by 2 inches. Return the chorizo and bacon to the pot. Add the oregano. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer.
Simmer uncovered for 2½ to 3 hours, stirring occasionally, until the beans are completely tender and the broth has thickened and turned a deep reddish-brown. Add water as needed to keep the beans submerged.
Season generously with salt. Stir in a big handful of chopped cilantro just before serving. Serve in bowls as a side, or as a main with rice and warm tortillas.
From the family
These are better the next day. Sandra always says make them in the afternoon, let them sit overnight, and reheat them for the party. The broth deepens and the flavors settle in. Make more than you think you need — they go fast.
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